One of the first was Bodegas Vega Sicilia, indisputably Spain's greatest estate, which in 1993 acquired one of Tokay's most highly-regarded properties in the top-rated village of Tolcsva, at the region's heart. Rechristened Bodegas Oremus, the winery boasts 115 hectares of "first growth" vineyard plus several kilometers -- and five levels -- of underground cellars hand hewn into volcanic rock. The wines are made by Tokaj Master Andras Backsos, from the traditional. Oremus have also pioneered the vinification of high quality, oak-aged dry wine, primarily from the Furmint grape.