The Rueda region in central Spain used to make a sherry-style wine from the local grape, Verdejo (not to be confused with Verdelho which is a Portuguese grape particularly used in Madeira.) But in the 1970s, a Rioja producer Marques de Riscal started making crisp dry wines and the results were a revelation. Since then other Rioja bodegas like Beronia have moved in producing wines that have something of the Sancerre about them but combined with big floral and nutty flavours. This is a great seafood wine.