Not a powerhouse, and a bit restrained at first, but with air, this opens up beautifully, allowing the notes of peach, ginger and yellow plum to emerge tied to a bony frame. The complexity makes this almost a philosophical drink, but a bright mineral note and the alluring, mouthwatering edge bring back the immediate enjoyment. Superlong and harmonious, but the slight crunch on the finish suggests this could benefit from more aging.