The playful label that adorns this “vino rosso,” created by the late, famous Italian comics artist Sergio Staino, belies the class, structure, and ageability of the Fantino brothers’ Laboro Disobedient, a riserva Barolo they originally declassified because of bureaucratic red tape. All it takes is one sip of this profound and stately red, swirling with notes of cherries, tar, blood orange, and spice, to be captivated by the alluring power of the Fantinos’ Monforte terroir.