This is a very old school Beaujolais in the best sense: beautiful garnet color, beguiling aromatics, and a burst of refreshment in the mouth—and that burst is a savory, mineral, toothsome thing because of the domaine’s high elevations and because of Brouilly’s meager volcanic soils. Some crus emphasize soil notes, others give fruit, but only good Cote de Brouilly gives stone in the flavor.\n\nFerments typically are spontaneous in concrete vats and the vast majority of the elevage is in concrete (with a few neutral barrels). Production averages 20,000 bottles.