The 2022 Grüner Veltliner Steinertal Smaragd is the easternmost terraced single-site of the Wachau, on the border to Kremstal and its Pfaffenberg. While this is at the warmer end of the Wachau, two gullies bring down cold air from the forested top and create a high day-night amplitude. Peppery fern and green pear skin have a creamy, salty aspect on the subtle nose. The palate tingles with pepper on a very fine, taut, bright body that is both slender and stony. Grüner's creaminess washes over like surf over immovable rocks. This is a statuesque, smooth, taut wine, with a haunting pepperiness on the finish.