From their cellar in the heart of historic Monforte d’Alba, brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino exemplify low-intervention winemaking at its best, with an old-school vibe that resonates through each of their classic cuvees. The Laboro is a declassified Barolo Riserva aged in neutral old botti; Gian Natale defines it as “so typically Barolo that it’s not even a Barolo.” Deep and brawny, it is loaded with dark fruit and balsamic notes of incense, tea, and spice, finishing with a thick, chewy tannin. “This is old-fashioned Nebbiolo, the way we like it!” Gianni exclaims. This brooding beast epitomizes great Barolo from Monforte.